Friday 29th March - Monday 8th April 2024
We set sail mid afternoon on Good Friday from Ua Pou, to our next destination, Nuka Hiva. It was apt Dugald should catch a fish on this day, another tuna, which was very manageable. We know the process, and it didn’t take long to have the fish ready for another tasty meal.
We arrived in the anchorage in the early evening, feeling pleased with our days achievements.
The following day, Dugald and I decided to go to the Easter Saturday Vigil to experience the candle procession and the Easter Vigil Service. It was quite an adventure. We met Sybille and Mahina, from Pure Fun, and their new found friend, Eloise, who was working as a local nurse on the island. Thank goodness for Eloise with whom, we never would have found the Church. We ventured down back alleys, through villigers gardens, over a ford, all in the dark. Eventually we arrived, were directed to a seat to enjoy the proceedings. The service was in French and Polynesian. Mahina and Eloise were able to translate some of the readings, overall, we were glad to be there to experience the atmosphere of peace and serenity.
The singing throughout the service was like no other we had experienced. The whole congregation joined in. No one was exempt, everyone knew their part. A true show of a community in harmony.
The church was decorated with local flowers, all fresh blooms and vibrant colours, off set by the congregation’s white garments.
We were going to revisit the Church on Easter Sunday as a family. Dugald and I were quite excited to attend again. However, as Saturday was a three hour long service, most of which we didn't understand, we thought we'd just arrive for the mass an hour later than the published time.
Sunday, was extremely hot and humid. We were not used to such heat. There was some debate with Iain who was not inclined to walk for 20 minutes to get to the church, however, we persuaded him with the promise of a lovely cool drink and lunch in Le Nuku Hiva Hotel after mass. He joined us but under protest. We arrived an hour late, but to my dismay, and Iain's absolute annoyance, the mass was over! Why have I not learned that on the actual feast days, there is a shortage of priests who have to be flown from island to island so time is of the essence? Iain was not amused. However, I lit a candle, Sophia, Dugald and I talked to some of the parishioners who recognised us from the night before, promising to come again.
Now we had to get to Le Hotel. Again, a 15 minute walk, up hill, in the even hotter heat of the day, but I knew all would be fine when Iain saw his boat from the veranda of the hotel with a cool beer in his hand and a tasty lunch. We arrived.
The staff were most unhelpful, they were not serving for another hour, and the kitchen had a limited menu. We were not made to feel welcome. In fact this was my third visit and each time the staff were very unhelpful, bordering on rude, to such an extent that other people had remarked on their rudeness directly at me. Their attitude was not helping my cause. The day could not have been any worse. We had a drink, then walked back to the boat in silence, I made a mental note not to return to the hotel, or repeat such an Easter which is now etched on our minds.
Moving on from Easter, we were pleased to be on this perfect island to catch up with lots of our new ARC friends. Sophia managed to find herself a job, helping with the horse riding treks through the countryside so she was gone for most of the day having her own fun.
Iain and I enjoyed a 12 km hike through the Aakapa and Hatiheu valleys via a track in the heart of the native forest. When we reached the top, we were grateful for a rest and another magnificent view of the whole North-East of the island including the bay with our chariot! I suspect the only reason we went up there in the first place was for a different view of her!
Our week on the island, gave us a chance to join in with the local communities experiencing a little of their everyday life. It would seem Bingo is a big pastime, of course we were going to give it a try. It would appear even here, the callers have a little rhyme for the obvious numbers, which were called in French. Slightly challenging, but with Mahina’s help we muddled through. Where would we be without Mahina’s five languages? It was lots of fun and the local community were happy to include us.
Since arriving in French Polynesia, on the whole, I have found the people and their culture very calming. Everyone has time, are respectful of each other and their surroundings.
While it could be said these islands have little, they value what there is. The islands are kept clean and well manicured. All the dwellings appear to be maintained however simple they are. We have not experienced rubbish or decay on the streets or in the countryside.
The people are also genuinely happy to help. On my first visit to Le Hotel, I enquired at the tourist office for a taxi. As the lady realised it was only me, she asked one of the local boys to drive me, free of charge which he did willingly. Such kindness seems to have been lost in our big cities and towns. Daily, I felt overwhelmed and unable to repay such thoughtfulness.
The usual prize giving and island entertainment heralded our time on this beautiful island was coming to an end. Sophia was very upset to be leaving. She had made great friends with so many people.
We made the best of our last days. The Tourist Board made a tremendous effort to help us understand their culture. During the day, there was a display of traditional music, crafts and demonstrations of local food preparations.
The same evening was a spectacular display of traditional dancing including fire eating. The entertainment was extremely professional. Eloise informed us that these dancers travelled around the world showcasing their traditional dance. Their professionalism was evident. Such a spectacular display of ancient stories past down through the generations.
The dancing was followed by a local feast. Although, the dancing was a feast all of it's own!
The meat was cooked in an underground pit, over several hours. Dugald was very keen to see the construction of the oven. He has been talking about cooking a lamb or suckling pig in this way in our garden for some years. Now it will be a reality! The overall feeling of being on this island was that nothing seemed too much trouble for our hosts. It was so refreshing and yet humbling being here.
It was time to leave. The List was updated in case there was time on the journey to tick off a job or two. Sophia was particularly sad as were the family who she had been helping with the riding tours. The family came to say goodbye, presenting Sophia with a big box of fruit and honey. I worried we would not be able to consume it all before it spoilt. I was also aware, we were taking food from the island. Food which could go to better use. Moreover, we did not have a designated space for it and a hanging at the back of the boat was "not an option Jacqueline". However, we accepted graciously.
We set sail for Fakarva. Our next destination was four days away.
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