Monday 18th - Saturday 30th March 2024
Hiva Oa, French Polynesia
Land! And three days before we were due to arrive. We could not believe what we had just achieved. We crossed an ocean, and there, rising in front of us, was the most spectacular sight. Once a magnificent, angry, roaring volcano shooting flames and lava high into the sky, it was now a tropical haven for all manner of wildlife and fauna.
Iain and Dugald were excited at the prospect of a true explorer's welcome. Surely they too were entitled to the same welcoming smiles and lei presented by the hospitable people in canoes who would row out to guide us in, just as William Bligh and his men had experienced? Sadly, this was not to be. Even our trusty welcome committee of Jenevra and Fergus were still in transit. However, from a distance and with their usual efficiency, they managed our check-in, making our arrival seamlessly simple.
Sophia checked into The Hiva Oa Hotel and began making herself known. Sophia needed to connect with the earth and nature; she was looking for horses. We left her to it for a couple of days while we put the boat back together. In true Sophia style, she acquainted herself with all manner of people to the point where we were recognised as her family when we went into the village. “Oh, the lady looking for horses? Yes.”
There is no public transport on the island, only cars to rent or taxis. Sophia had no trouble obtaining a lift to town! She told me to simply ask at the petrol station, and someone will offer! Wow! Off I went in search of a ride to adventures and fresh fruit.
There was a long line of people waiting to pay for their fuel. I asked the cashier, who was also the owner of the station. There was silence from the queue behind me; eventually, the owner kindly arranged a taxi. Clearly, I was missing something, but I enjoyed the ride with the lady taxi driver who also stopped to do a little shopping on her way and returned an hour later to pick us up.
We all started to enjoy our time on this breathtaking island while taking in the enormity of our achievement and sudden cultural differences between ourselves and these beautiful, all encompassing people. Such open hearted generosity was a very new experience which took us by surprise.
I were very excited to be in the home and burial place of Gauguin. Dugald and I spent a pleasant morning looking at copies of his paintings and visiting his home. Like, Gauguin, Jacque Brel, the Belgium Actor, singer/songwriter was also drawn to this magical place and the two artists are buried very near each other in Calvary Cemetery. We too had fallen in love with this island. A very fine place to put down roots to express one’s artistic flare. Our very own ARC artist Caroline Navarro was surely going to be inspired here too, but hopefully will not stay!
Another great day was had when we hired a car in search of the smiling Tiki. The Tikis of Hiva Oa are among the most significant artefacts from the pre-European culture, believed to have been created between the 10th and 16th centuries AD.
In true Kirkpatrick style, we packed for all eventualities for a day in the wilderness, ignoring the fact that there is only one road on the island and it is practically a circular route. The BBQ and sausages were coming. So too were many refreshments in our trusty cool box. We were set.
The road was precarious, but the scenery was arresting. We took the drive in our stride. We had crossed an Ocean! Life was on our side.
We followed the odd sign until eventually, we found the tiny village of Punaei, where the Tiki site is preserved on private land. We explored the lovely village with its laid back atmospher and breathtaking views. We were finding this new pace of life a challenge. We made a metal note to try to slow down. Not everyone has somewhere else to be. And anyway, what's the hurry? Those Tiki were not going anywhere.
We strolled and listened in on other visitors' guided tours. We didn't find the most famous of all the Hiva Oa Tiki, Tiki Souriant, who is a cheeky little pillar that makes everyone smile. To date, this is the only Tiki to be discovered bearing a smile. Their usual expression is perhaps a little threatening and strong. However, we did find Tiki Takaii, standing at 2.5 meters, the tallest of all the Marquesas Tiki, with its usual austere expression.
After exploring this ancient civilisation, my men needed meat. It was time to hit the road and find a suitable spot for our BBQ. Dugald stopped several times, Iain vacated the car to inspect the view, none would suffice until we found a spot on the side of the road with a sheer drop to the ocean feet away from the back of the tailgate! I insisted I would rather be hit by a speeding car on its way home than fall down the cliff, clutching a BBQ sausage in a bun. The car was moved forward.
We continued to meet our contemporaries as they arrived to share meals and stories. A high night life is not encouraged on the island. The few restaurants do not stay open late, if they open at all. There are no nightclubs or bars of any description. But there was a very well frequented food truck in the car park next to the petrol station which served home cooked food at the weekend. Steak and Frits or Chicken Chow main. Who needs anything else?
The portion sizes were overwhelming. Those in the know brought along a their own takeaway boxes for the left overs. The sensible people, ordered one meal between two! The food was delicious, We soon began to frequent the truck along with the locals and the rest of the ARC fleet. Quite a joining of cultures and all with a big open heart.
The days were passing quickly as we began to recover from our crossing. We were in our free cruising period. It was becoming increasingly unsettled in the anchorage. Time to move to a quieter anchorage on the island of Tahuata, only short motor across the bay. A few of our fellow ARC friends had the same idea.
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