Wednesday 6th March - Monday 18th March 2024
Santa Cruz, Galapagos - Hiva Oa, French Polynesia (3,140nm)
We were ready for the start line dance. The gun rang out and we jumped into action however our Code 0 had other plans. It would not unfurl. There was some very controlled, frustrated instructions articulated to the foredeck crew. Sophia and Dugald performed their sibling solidarity, but the sail would not budge. Finally, the sail configuration was changed and we continued with the main and jib.
Unlike our sail, the day unfolded.
As compensation for our less than satisfactory start, the seas were flat and we were able to make bread and our evening meal of mince and vegetables. I joined the SSB broadcast of this leg. We knew what was expected for this trip and we were ready. Our night watch rotations were decided and we settled into the first night of our epic journey as a mature family.
For the next two days, my family trimmed and changed sails alternating between the main, jib and code 0.
Next, the sheet winch began to make some very strange noises. Iain and Dugald took the winch apart and serviced it. By the end of the afternoon, the winch was back in action and all were calm and happy. As evening approached, the wind became lighter making the night watches very easy.
By morning light, Iain was itching to unleash Big Barry, our new white spinnaker. He woke us. Iain talked us through the manoeuvre, we were all confident with our instructions. Sophia and Dugald took their positions on the foredeck. The command was given, and as so many times in my children’s teenage years, they hoisted our spinnaker in one fluid manoeuvre. Sophia and Dugald made it look effortless. I imagined them as young teenagers on our previous boats working in unison with our wonderful crew. A sight I never experienced, as I was only ever shore crew. My children’s teamwork filled me with admiration and pride.
I was not allowed to bask in the moment for too long, Dugald’s fishing line was racing out and the boat was still zipping. It was Dugald’s turn to give instructions forcefully. Sophia and I tried to get all the apparatus ready to land the fish. Iain was being told to slow the boat, but as the spinnaker was flying effortlessly, he was not going to do anything to jeopardise his new sail or his speed.
Dugald started reeling in the fish as quickly as he could, the fish was fighting back. Sophia joined Dugald on the reel and both fought with the fish and their father as they tried to persuade both to slow down. Eventually, the fish, a very large Wahoo, was landed and dispatched. A sterling effort by everyone on board. Dugald performed an expert job of filleting the fish and Sophia prepared a wonderful supper.
The spinnaker was replaced with the Code 0 and we ate the freshest meal we could ever imagine. All was well on board! Night fell and the watching commenced once more.
We continued eating up the miles and the wonderful fish for many days. We saw flying fish, birds and dolphins. We lost lures and fish but gained the moon which made the night watches such a joy as the boat glided through the inky seas bathed in a gentle light. I relished the sight of the moon and stars on my watch. I thanked God for his blessings of experiencing such a spectacle with my family.
We were fast approaching the half way point in our journey. We had every reason to celebrate.
On 12th March at mid day, Big Barry White was unleashed once more. As if in recognition for my families efforts, we were joined by a large pod of dolphins who delighted in playing in the bubbles at the bow of our chariot as Barry powered us forward. Breathtaking.
Iain, Sophia and Dugald took it in turn to hand steer while Big Barry pulled us forward, cutting through the waves like a hot knife in butter. Our chariot was so steady on port tack, the same side as the water maker and washing machine, I turned both machines on. Wrong! the washing machine emptied most of its contents onto the floor. Not one of my better decisions, but Iain was a darling sorting it all so I did not need to go below. All cleared up, washing rinsed by hand and hung, we crossed the half way mark and snagged another large fish! There were many raised voices, while we fought our way through the washing trying to slow the boat and save the fish….. It was destined to failure. PPP! Too many anomalies for our skipper to cope with. Another fish and line were sacrificed, but luckily, Sophia had planned a spectacular meal of steak and salad for our momentous moment. With the boat back in order, and Big Barry still flying we enjoyed our greatest achievement as a family.
Big Barry stayed up all night, and my family watched the autopilot, putting themselves under great strain while crunching up the miles.
At 03:00 hrs the autopilot failed and it was all hands on deck to recover the sail which we did without any drama. For the remainder of the night and the next day my family hand steered. It was a tough day, but all were thrilled with their achievements. For a calmer night, we changed the sail plan to main and jib.
We continued to romp on, the winds and heat increased. My family rose to every challenge. Each day we enjoyed the SSB broadcasts which was a chance to speak to our contemporaries. In true English tradition, we discussed the weather.
The end was in sight. Big Barry was pulling us forward, but not without our final challenge. The snuffer became detached and jammed, partly snuffing the top third of the sail. Orders were given at high decibels to lower Big Barry to the deck without the aid of the snuffer. This manoeuvre I understood from many years ago before we had such a thing on our first small boat.
We sprang into action hauling Barry to the deck completely dry! While we were in the exhausted, heightened state, and it was only mid day, we thought it would be an advantage to repack the knotted and twisted sail ready for the next hoist. It took a lot of planning and team work. The sail consumed the whole of the boat and our energy, but we achieved our goal. The sail was packed. It was quite a day!
The weather was the main focus of our lives. We have been sailing long enough to know we should never take it for granted. Zephyr-us kept us on our toes. We changed watches and sails, we lost lures, fish and sleep, we tried to maintain a normal routine while we laughed and we cried. Throughout this epic journey we pulled together drawing on each other's strengths until finally on Monday 18th March at 08:58, we arrived at our destination. Hiva Oa, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia.
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